Faller Funfair Set #140340 - Construction Log



This set contains reissues of various Faller Kits from their Amusement Park range, but mostly moulded in new colours.
Each kit (other than the Ferris Wheel) is packaged in its own separate bag.

This Set contains:
Model Previously available as
Ferris Wheel #311 Exclusive Edition
Food Stand #195446, #447
Bouncy Castle #327
"Test Your Strength" Sideshow #190252
Portaloos #180543



Ferris Wheel



If you want to light the Ferris Wheel then the Lighting Kits (1 x #180635 & 2 x #180636) have to be purchased separately.
However, in this particular case I have bought most of the components supplied in these kits seperately and saved money doing so.
The only component I haven't bought yet is the copper strip required to build my own contact strips (although I have located a suitable supplier),
so for the moment I'm using the ones from my other Ferris Wheel.




Power is supplied to the cars by running a length of wire around the edge of each side of the wheel and wrapping it once round each rivet.
The trailing lead will be connected to the central hub of the wheel.



























The two metal rods (top left, next to the bulbs) fit underneath the seats inside the car and are used to add weight.





I ran into two problems:
1) The cars would not swing freely. This was mostly due to the fact that two of the plastic sections that formed the wheel were slightly warped. This reduced the size of the gap between the rims of the two halves of the wheel.
2) The lights on individual cars would flicker as the wheel turned - I've had exactly the same problem with both of the other two Faller Ferris Wheels I've built. The problem appears to be associated with a lack of sufficient contact between the pins and the rivets around the edge of the wheel - probably because the cars are still very light, in spite of the two rods used to add weight. I think the first problem also contributed to this

The first problem was solved by removing a sliver of plastic from the hubs that extend from both sides of each car - you can just about see this in the photo above if you compare the car on the left with the one on the right. At the same time as trimming the hubs on the cars I also decided to reverse the pins that hold the cars on the wheel. My logic here was that there would be a greater surface area of pin in contact with the rivet - I had to trim the pins so that they didn't extend beyond the rivet. Although making these two modifications significantly reduced the flickering problem, it hadn't been completely solved. The next thing I tried was to adjust the position of the pins until the rib around the centre of the pin was just in contact with the rivet, but still making sure that the car was still able to swing easily - this has virtually erradicated the flickering problem.








Bouncy Castle




I ran into huge problems with the transfers. The instructions state:
Cut the required decals out of the sheet, dip them into a glass of water with some drops of soap water for about half a minute and position the decals on the kit.

My first mistake was to assume that these were standard wet transfers. The first piece I tried to transfer was one of the wall transfer. When I attempted to slide the transfer off the paper, the transfer collapsed into a single lump (see photo below).







Looking at the transfer sheet more closely I noticed the following:
1. Each wall transfer is not made up of a single piece of film, but is of a lattice structure comprising of virtually just the brick outlines - this was why the transfer collapsed as it was removed from the backing paper.
2. By looking at the princess & dragon transfers, it was clear that what you are looking at is the back of the transfer (the colours are dull - the brighter colours are on the side facing the paper backing) - this was confirmed by the fact that the glue is on the side facing you, and not between the film and the paper.
3. Comparing the transfer sheet with the instruction manual (scanned above), the transfers appear to be printed in reverse.

The only option left was to try and apply the transfer with the paper backing still in place - but the thickness of the paper prevented it from moulding to the curves on the side walls.

So unless I'm completely misunderstanding something, I can only assume that I've got a incorrectly printed transfer sheet. Instead of asking for a replacement sheet, I decided to make my own wet transfer sheet. I scanned one of the remaining wall transfers, edited it, googled for some dragon & princess images and produced the following:






I ultimately didn't use the princess transfers.




Food Stand



















Test Your Strength Sideshow






You have the option of using either a small light (not supplied) or a simulated red bulb in the character's button hole.





I came up with a circuit that will cause the light to flash at ~8sec intervals.
Clicking on the circuit above will take you to a separate page containing an AC & DC circuit.



(The sides of the cage aren't bent - it's just the closeness of the camera)


Portaloos










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